Lochan Tea Tasting – #5 Harmutty Golden Paw, 2009 Second Flush

#5 Harmutty Golden Paw, 2009 Second Flush

Dry Leaf: Straw

Wet Leaf: Spice, Vegetal, and Sharp

Brewed: Warm honey on the nose and up front in the taste, smooth malt, and a fairly quick finish of a bit of tannin/bitter but soft enough that the initial flavors carry through to the close.

With a similar dry leaf scent as the Hattialli from yesterday, this one changes quite drastically from the wet leaf smell onward. I’m not sure I would be able to instantly peg this as an Assam by taste alone. It goes from honey to malt to a bit of tannins/bitterness but not unpleasantly so, and then to a fairly short finish which is a wrap-up of everything that came before in one. I really enjoy this tea and it is pretty straightforward but it does it’s thing in a nice neat package that has just enough complexity to make another sip appealing. It doesn’t strike me as a tea that you would sit and ponder deep thoughts over a long finish, but not every tea has to be. Efficient, fulfilling, and brisk.

Lochan Tea Tasting – #4 Hattialli Golden Bud, 2009 Second Flush

#4 Hattialli Golden Bud, 2009 Second Flush

Dry Leaf: Assam, no mistaking it. A deep darker straw/hay scent.

Wet Leaf: Assam, malty and bold. A hint of a sour.

Brewed: Assertive flavor up front of Assam which has a lot happening in the middle, they flash by quickly so it will take more than one tasting to peg this one. That’s a good thing, I like a challenge and something that makes me come back a few times before giving up it’s secrets.

I’m not normally one for Assam outside of maybe with some raw sugar when I’m at a cafe and nothing else really speaks to me. I was surprised by this one, the smell of the leaf seems to scream standard Assam, but one sip of the richly dark liquor reveals that there are a few layers to dig through before the old standby Assam notes finally show up. They do go by quickly, as I’ve stated, so one could happily drink this at just face value and be perfectly happy with the fairly bold, slightly honey sweet, tiny touch bitter and astringent tea. But with a little attention it has more to offer. Thoughts of a favorite wine, or a satisfying meal, conjure up but can’t be caught. I could see this as a good vessel for some sugar and milk, but not to mask anything or to tame an unruly or overly strong cup but more in harmony with the actual nature of the tea itself. It’s soft but bold enough to demand notice.

Lochan Tea Tasting – #3 Korakundha FOP 2009 Second Flush

#3 Korakundha FOP 2009 Second Flush

Dry Leaf: Raisin and not a whole lot else.

Wet Leaf: Strangely enough, spinach.

Brewed: Very mild, almost like a Ceylon/Dimbula. Very faint fruity notes but not anywhere near pronounced enough to specify. Straightforward but wholly enjoyable black tea.

I don’t want to short this tea by such a brief overview but these are my tasting notes, as-is. It’s a bright cup of tea that does one thing and does it well, no massive complexities, no super long finish or standout notes. It’s grown at one of the highest elevations I believe and the wiry partial leaves look like they have eeked out an existence high up in some tougher climes. It is slightly sweet throughout and I can’t see it benefiting from any additional sweetener, and it is a touch too mild to really stand up to a shot of milk… neither of these are routine additions for me but I thought it may help those who do enjoy it.

Lochan Tea Tasting – #2 Meghma Oolong 2009 Second Flush

#2 Meghma Oolong 2009 Second Flush

Dry Leaf: Autumn leaves. Since I am currently surrounded and drowning in orange and brown fallen leaves, I know it well.

Wet leaf: Bai Hao/Oriental Beauty with some edge of Puerh and faint wet Autumn leaf subtly at the end.

Brewed: Keemun instantly up front, a little malty, which turns quickly into an Oriental Beauty with very slight citrus no strong assertive notes popping out. Raw honey and very faint roasted almond on the breath at the very long end.

Small leaves unfurl into this mid roasted/fermented tea which sits between the greener oolongs and the more heavily fired and oxidized offerings. I wasn’t sure what to think with the overwhelming Autumn leaf scent of the freshly opened package that didn’t expose much else in the way of secrets. The instant the near-boil water kissed the leaf though it opened up into what hit me as a fairly standard Oriental Beauty oolong. The taste eventually went in that direction but the first hit of Keemun and the very long finish was quite welcome and gave it some added dimension. Minutes after the last sip there was a slight hint of those original Autumn leaves which followed the first finish of faint raw honey/roasted almond that appeared 20-30 seconds after the initial taste. A good tea in the Bai Hao/Oriental Beauty category, but nothing that would make this fit a category of its own or snap to the top of the one it comfortably sits in. The long finish is very relaxing and enjoyable which forces one to slow down and savor it to the end… and even a bit beyond.

Lochan Tea Tasting – #1 Doke 2009 Silver Needle

Tea #1 Doke 2009 Silver Needle:Dry leaf: Nice full leaf, many downy, some green some woodier, scent reminiscent of raspberry

Wet Leaf: Raspberry continues with possibly a little citrus/tang and herbal/woody notes

Brewed: Woody up front with a finish of faint raspberry, a small amount of astringency and a bit of malt/hops… can be detected along lines of the finish of a good Belgian beer.

A very nice white tea with a very good balance and complexity as well as a more well-rounded and developed overall flavor than many silver needles which can be overpowering in one aspect or another. Not bitter or harsh, this tea has all it’s corners rounded off even with a fair amount of leaf and steep time. Not flowery or perfumy either.

Lochan Tea Tasting

I will be participating in Lochan Tea’s upcoming tasting of an array of their teas. One tasting a day starting on Monday 2nd of November. I will be posting the results from each day here as well as submitting my notes for them. It covers a range of Indian teas with a concentration on Darjeelings. I’m particularly happy because one of the teas in the tasting just won the gold medal at the 2009 Chinese Tea Expo for the Black Tea category.

10 Teas to Start With

Now that we have covered some basics of brewing, we need to lay some ground work on determining just what teas to brew. There are thousands of types of tea and even within a specific type of tea there can be hundreds of variations, it can be daunting. Today we’ll try to compile a list of 10 teas that cover a wide enough spectrum that will quickly show you what types and characteristics of tea you, personally, enjoy and which you do not. This will allow you to explore with some confidence from that point without simply relying on luck. So let’s get to it:

1.) Ceylon – Smooth and generally mellow, this tea is probably the closest  to the standard teabag many are familiar with but a nice upgrade in flavor and quality. It is a fairly rich taste with a very slight bit of astringency and bitterness.

2.) Sencha – A Japanese green tea that is very light, bright, and refreshing. This is a true green tea in every sense of the word and miles apart from what is often sold as “green tea” in most stores.

3.) Long Jing – A very popular Chinese green tea with a bright and almost “nutty” flavor. This is a nice contrast to Sencha and showcases a different side of green tea. Also known as Dragonwell.

4.) Shui Xian – This oolong tea is often associated with tea served in Chinese restaurants. It is a nice basic introduction to oolongs and isn’t that radical a departure from many of the flavors of standard teabags, but the medium fermentation and roasting adds complexity. Also known as Shui Hsien, or water sprite.

5.) Tie Guan Yin – A greener oolong with a slightly floral aroma and flavor. The split in oolongs generally runs along the more roasted/fermented/fruity lines such as Shui Xian and the greener/floral ones like this tea. Again comparing this to the Shui Xian should yield a personal affinity towards one or the other, many enjoy both. Also known as Tie Kuan Yin, or Iron Goddess of Mercy.

6.) Silver Needles – White tea is often shrouded in mystery and mystique, but it is really just minimally processed tea leaf that isn’t roasted or fermented, just dried. It is delicate and often has a sweetness. Also known as Bai Hao Yinzhen, or Yin Zhen.

7.) Keemun – A black tea in the Chinese style which is rich, sweet, and full-bodied. This would be a great introduction tea for coffee lovers since it is not as subtle as many of the others. Some keemuns exhibit a smokey flavor which some may find desirable.

8.) Darjeeling – Sometimes referred to as “The Champagne of Teas” this Indian tea exhibits a wonderful array of flavors from sweet to nutty to grape-ish muscatel notes. Within this one category almost anyone can find at least one or two specific teas that matches their preferences. This type alone could be an entire lifelong pursuit, so try a few different ones in this category before making an assessment.

9.) Jasmine Green – I’ve included this option in the list to offer an idea of what flavored tea is really about. Almost all low-end tea and widely available tea is so heavily flavored and imbalanced that many have lost sight of the fact that the tea itself is the star. A delicate jasmine scent added to a quality green tea is a nice balance and gateway between the overpowered offerings in most cafes and the ultimate goal of the unadorned beauty of the leaf itself. Jasmine pearls are often the best choice in this type of tea.

10.) Puer – This is the single-malt Scotch and cigar of tea. It is highly prized and often aged for many years, and has a dedicated following of devotees. If you like earthy, smoky, and oaky flavors in your wines or enjoy the aforementioned Scotch and cigar, this may be a tea for you. If this doesn’t sound like your style you can skip this one altogether or at least try one to say you experienced it. Again, this is a complex group and requires quite a bit of initiative to dig into properly, there are a number of great resources on the web for those interested however. Sometimes spelled puerh or pu-erh.

These 10 teas certainly won’t show you everything tea has to offer, but it will cover a very wide breadth of styles and flavors that will act as a springboard to further exploration and enjoyment. Feel free to ask questions and post comments and most importantly, Have Fun!

Update – Long Jing Huang Pao

It’s not often I update a tea that I so recently covered for the first time, but this is an exception. My recent foray into some new black/red teas didn’t produce much to excite me, but there had been this one oddball. With a fairly mysterious past filled with intrigue and adventure such as 300 year-old, lost, recipes recently uncovered and diligent reproduction of it resulting in a tea that has been brought back from the sands of time and now can be in your cup for a few sheckles. These kinds of tales always fail to impress me and normally I steer clear of wild claims like this, especially since there is just one source and one manufacturer… but I tried a sample purely out of curiosity. It was strange, with an over-ripe fruit taste and some characteristics of puer along with a sweet/sour kind of note that permeated the whole thing. I know that it might not sound all that alluring, but initially the oddness caught my attention. It ships in small 3g packets from the manufacturer which is also kind of weird.

I can’t vouch for the story behind it all, but I can say that this tea has grown on me quickly. Something about that flavor sings to me, regardless if the story surrounding it has a shred of truth to it or not. I wish this tea was available in some other format than just buying multiple tiny 3g plastic packets which is actually my main issue. I’d like to store some to age and also to not have to open tiny packets for larger brewings. Hopefully this will change or a new source will be found where it can be bought in a normal quantity. But things can’t be all bad if my main issue is getting my hands on more! This strange tea is worth a try for anyone who likes puer or a bit of a walk on the wild side of tea.

Brewing Tea – Water, Temperature, and Time

I realize that to many tea brewing begins and ends with dunking a teabag into a mug of variably tepid/boiling water for an indeterminate amount of time and then adding in sugar and/or milk to mask the acrid brew that was just unleashed. I cringe when I see folks at cafes get handed a cup full of improperly heated water with a single-use tea strainer/bag in it and that is where it remains for the duration of the drink. No wonder people don’t get tea or think it needs to be doctored up in myriad ways to become palatable. There are other extremes of thermometers and timers and digital scales too, but as with anything, there is a balance. This post is meant to be a primer, not the final master class, and I plan to continue to cover this in increasing depth to help everyone realize that there is so much more to the world of tea and that it isn’t hard.

Water, Temperature, and Time

Water is one of the most important parts of the whole equation. You want to make sure the water is absent of any flavors or chemicals. Water that is poured from the little orange/red spout from coffee machines might be filtered but it also may have some hints of the coffee present. Water straight from a tap might have chlorine or sulphur. There are many options but two inexpensive options are to buy a simple faucet-mounted filter (Pur, Dupont, Brita, etc.)  or buy the 1, 3, or 5-gallon jugs or containers of spring water. Starting with a solid foundation is the only way to get a great final result.

Temperature can make the same tea brewed the same way taste completely different. Sometimes this range is a good thing and can allow for a range of flavors from the same leaf, sometimes too much heat can destroy a delicate tea. This is a topic that entire books could be written about, so what we are aiming for here is just a good reference point and we will dig into it in more detail in the future. There are also debates on how the water is heated: microwave, gas stove, electric kettle, etc. And while there is some merit to some of these arguments, for right now the method will be ignored and we will just focus on the final water temperature no matter how it got that way.

The basic rule goes like this:

Black tea – full boiling water or just off boil at the least

Oolong tea – small bubbles/almost boiling or boiling water that has been allowed to cool for a minute or so

Green tea – hot but not boiling, allow boiled water to cool for a few minutes before using. You should be able to touch the water without suffering a burn, not literally but as an illustration of the temp we are going for here.

Tisanes/Herbal tea – full boiling water, the hotter the better. This is not tea and as such you are trying to extract everything you can from the herb/flower.

As you can see, the one-size-fits-all orange/red coffee machine lever is not useful for almost anything but green tea and some oolongs. So if you are at a cafe or situation (like an office) where this is the only option, your best bet is to select a green tea or oolong and just make do.

Time is the other important piece in this equation. Again some teas allow for some variation here and will offer up different flavors and complexities depending on how short or long it is steeped, some will become undrinkable (bitter or astringent) if left for too long. Each particular tea within a larger category (green, black, etc.) will have an optimal time and temperature but again we are setting up the basics here.

I start from 30-45 seconds to about 1-2 minutes and an occasional tea will work well with 3-5 minutes, herbal/tisanes always go 3-5 minutes. Start shorter and then try longer brews and find your particular sweet spot for the specific tea. Some do well with even longer 3-5 minute brewings, some become bitter and too strong.  It is all about what tastes good to YOU, not what a package or “expert” states is correct. With the right water and temperature, you can experiment on time to find what works for you… but leaving the tea in the cup for 5+ minutes until you finish it is not really the proper solution for ANY tea.

Quality tea makes a huge difference as well as does the amount used. Start with a solid teaspoon’s worth of leaf if in doubt and adjust from there to your taste.

Enjoy!

Turkish Coffee

A recent trip to a local Moroccan coffee shop made me absolutely fall in love with Turkish Coffee. Having had it before I wasn’t prepared for the amazing reinvention at the hands of a skilled artisan, it was amazing. I wanted to recreate it myself now that I’ve been enlightened so I knew my first step was to acquire the tools of the trade. The main component is the Ibrik, a very small (~4oz. or so for a single serving) copper or brass pot with a handle. It serves a specific purpose so while a reasonable result could probably be obtained without it, I had to go the authentic route. Just like each tea has its favorite teapot, Turkish Coffee has its favorite vessel as well. They’re inexpensive and small so it isn’t a monumental undertaking.

Just as with tea it can be as loose or exacting as you make it and there is certainly some skill and finesse involved which will take practice. The basic rundown is: Put in the desired amount of sugar (1-2 teaspoons), then fill the cold water to the point where the Ibrik starts to narrow, then add in about two heaping teaspoons of super finely ground coffee to the top. Do not stir it in. Then over a medium heat let it come to a slow foaming/boil. The fine coffee  grounds will act as a seal at the top to keep oxygen out which is the desired effect. As it begins to come to a slow boil the coffee will begin to mix in and that’s OK. Now is where the handle comes into play… take the Ibrik off of the heat source and stir down the foam until it settles down a bit, then put it back on. Do this three or four times and then let it sit off of the heat to let the grounds settle to the bottom. Pour off into a demitasse cup and leave as much of the grounds behind as possible, any mistakenly poured in will settle in the cup so avoid that last sip. Enjoy! It is a nice sweet treat and a good break from tea when you are looking for a coffee fix.